Image via Style.com
This year Milan Fashion Week rubber-stamped many of the trends that had been showcased in both New York and London, whilst simultaneously remaining true to its ethos and providing a scattering of fun and alternative palettes.
A cacophony of bright colours and quirky prints, specifically chilli red and bold yellows, broke the conservative tone set in New York and instigated the sense of fun and optimism often prevalent in Milan. Alberta Ferretti, Missoni and Salvatore Ferragamo all favoured tropical-inspired exotic themes, whilst a sense of playful perkiness was specifically evident in pieces such as Prada’s iconic Hot-rod footwear and Dolce and Gabbana’s pasta-inspired jewellery and distinct ‘five-a-day’ theme.
A clear focus on fabric construction and technique resounded throughout the collections this season, most notably in Raf Simon’s collection for Jil Sander. Here the focal points were clean, crisp whites and modern lines, punctuated by shocks of neon paisley and Picasso-esque doodles. Simmons has successfully maintained the soul and appeal of the Jil Sander brand, in pieces such as the simple white shirt, tailored jacket and slim line trousers, whilst injecting a hint of this season’s penchant for 1950’s glamour and bright colours, upholding the electric atmosphere in Milan.
Strengthening this season’s move towards spring pastels, Miuccia Prada was adamant that the aggregate impact of Prada’s Spring 2012 show would ‘take on the taboo of sweetness’. However, the elusive nature of this sweetness was emphasised by the juxtaposition of appliqué leather skirts emblazoned with hot-rod iconography against candyfloss pink lace coats and powder blue skirts. Prada, a brand that has consistently trodden a fine line between overt sexuality and modest femininity, has yet again achieved a beautiful investigation of contradicting ideals. The romance of the sugary pastels, 1950’s silhouettes and feminine pleating, was undercut with currents of surrealist, David Lynch-esque twists such as the flame detailed spurs on each pair of heels.
The thread of 1950’s glamour was carried through a number of collections, including Dolce and Gabanna, where it was combined with a large helping of fruit and vegetables. Their full A-line skirts and wide-cut short playsuits evoked the strong feelings of fun and frivolity so typical of Milan Fashion Week. Each piece was covered in large, bold and bright vegetable motifs, yet maintained the emphasis on the woman's sexuality. Their evening wear utilised a similar silhouette, but moved away from the Sicilian market stall and towards a series of stunningly elegant cocktail dresses in black lace, encrusted with copious amounts of sparkle.
The finale, inspired by footage of the 1950’s Miss Italia, saw a huge swathe of their signature, gem encrusted, corsets simultaneously parading down the catwalk. This show-stopping moment created a true sense of theatre, typifying the mischievous extravagance of Milan and certainly cemented Dolce and Gabbana as the feel-good show of the season.
Lizzy Wilkinson
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